Mountain Hardwear’s Sub Zero SL Parka is a serious gear item for winter back country excursions, high-elevation mountaineering, and general cold weather warmth. As the winter of 2010 unfolds, folks in the entire eastern half of North America are wearing parkas just to get to work. So even though the Sub Zero SL Parka is geared for extreme outdoor pursuits, it is a practical jacket filled with 650-fill down insulation and water-resistant exterior fabric.

Our test jacket arrived in a red/black color combination. Pesto/black and black are additional color options for this jacket. That’s what we wanted for several cold-weather excursions that could start with afternoon freezing rain, sleet or slush then turn to heavy snow in the evening. During our testing, this jacket caught a bit of everything cold and icy.

The jacket’s capability to immediately insulate and refract body heat kicks in soon as you slip into this hooded barrier from deep-freezing conditions. The down insulated hood is detachable. Yet it is attached in a manner in which heavy winds won’t dislodge it from the parka body.

Draw cords on the hood allow you to quickly adjust the fit with one hand. Whether you wear a wool watchman’s cap or a baseball cap – with a nice hand-formed bill – the SL Parka hood is roomy enough and adjustable,  to accommodate most head gear; including a bare pate.

Articulated parka sleeves and roomy fit allow full arm and torso movement.

The Sub Zero SL parka is highly packable.

Yeah, it’s puffy. Puffy means warm. Puffy is high-fashion in “kill you if you don’t have it” cold. One-handed adjustable draw cords are also located at the waist and the bottom hem line of the parka so you can keep body heat in and powder snow, debris, or cold air out. By loosening the draw cords you can also vent out excess heat.

Composite zippers (made from nylon so that they won’t freeze) secure fleece-lined pockets on either side of the SL. These lower-side pockets are large enough to easily find and heat-up your bare hands when you need to function with full finger dexterity, or those times you find yourself hanging-out in the cold and just bundling up. Two upper chest pockets also have composite zipper closures for storage of gloves, food, compass, etc.

An inside pocket on the left side is also zippered for items you want to keep close to your body, like your passport, and wallet filled with Chinese yen! On the right inside of the SL Parka is an open-top mesh pocket for storing your water bottle and keeping it close to your body to prevent freezing.

Even with no calorie-burning excercise, the Sub Zero SL Parka keeps the torso insulated from cold.

Articulated parka sleeves allow unhindered arm movement. Sleeve cuffs are roomy enough to fit

Zipped inside pocket for ready access to the passport!

over layered under garments and cumbersome gloves. Velcro cuff fasteners aid sealing the sleeve cuffs over gloved wrists. And Velcro fasteners are also used to seal the primary parka front torso zipper.

We would have liked to see more Velcro tabs available on the front zipper storm-welt, to function as a primary closure should there ever be a time when the primary zipper is hard to operate such as gearing up in pitch black nights, or situations when you are unable to take the gloves off.

It would also be good to have the option of upper sleeve or shoulder pockets using the Conduit SL and AFX weather-sealing fabric treatments and zipper protection.

We looked for the ability to shove this super cold-weather parka into its own little stuff sack and load it up in a pack. That’s how we like it. This compression capability is also great for travel, as it packs well in luggage. You know, there are times when you board the plane in Los Angeles sunshine and exit the craft at Logan Airport in Boston, smack in the middle of a winter night deep freeze. This Sub Zero SL is ideal as an emergency parka for long winter road trips in snow country where just having it with you affords some piece of mind when you find yourself waiting for a wrecker to come and winch you out of the center medium during a blizzard… after you’ve run out of gas.

At a weight of two pounds, five ounces, the SL is not a burden to transport in a pack.

Rear view of Sub Zero SL Parka. Black shoulder and hemline fabric breaks up the red flag.

One hundred percent ripstop AFX nylon comprises the outer fabric. Working with the exterior tough and lightweight parka shell is the breathable Conduit SL laminate membrane to keep driving wind, and water (in any form) out. The Conduit SL laminate assures you this jacket is waterproof. Both the exterior Conduit SL laminate and interior Conduit SL laminate serves to add a level of warmth and deliver protection you can stake your comfort on. So, puffy, light, and warm as the Mt. Hardwear Sub Zero SL parka is, it’s also impervious to wind and rain.

Like we mentioned above, the conditions this SL was worn in brought us sleet, freezing rain, snow and bitter clear-sky cold.  Nothing we experienced phased the insulation, warmth, and comfort level we enjoyed wearing this parka.

Here’s also what winter back country seekers and alpine mountaineers will readily lock onto. The Mt. Hardwear sub-zero SL parka is your upper torso down sleeping bag when used in combination with an half-bag or elephant foot type down bag. Not only is the SL your daily wear option, but your sleeping quarters if you choose. It’s that legitimately capable of keeping your entire body warm.

Velcro cuff adjustments facilitate one-handed operation.

We stayed dry in the conditions we found ourselves in. We did not stand out it a raining downpour, nor did anybody jump into the shower with it on. It worked great in ugly weather, real-world use. But the AFX laminate used as a durable water repellent (DWR) is designed to be five times more durable than any other DWR. This all the more increases its value as a practical cold weather investment.

During our test trips, we were able to navigate seriously freezing weather conditions. The jacket is very warm even when not moving about or heating up the body core with exercise. All things considered, this Mountain Hardwear Sub-zero SL Parka is useful for any activity that requires one to be out in freezing temperatures and winter conditions.

Although the loft appears bulky, the SL Parka allowed free movement of the arms and upper torso. It was very comfortable in all cases. This is a serious mountaineering and alpine jacket beyond a shadow of a doubt. Yet this is a winter jacket that lends its warmth and durability at a reasonable investment to any application.

By Rick Shandley

Specifications:

• Fleece-lined hand warmer pockets
• Baffle construction for maximum loft/warmth
• Durable, waterproof fabric
• 650-fill down insulation for warmth
• AXF Super Durable Water Resistant (DWR) finish
• Repels water five times longer than standard DWR’s
• Integrated hood will not detach in high wind
• One-handed hood and hem/waist draw cords for quick fit adjustments
• Stuff sack included
• MSRP: $395 U.S.

Other Gear Reviewed:

• Mountain Khakis Original Alpine flannel-lined pants
• Lowe-Alpine Cerro Torre 65/85 backpack
• Merrell Outbound Mid Leather backpacking boots
• Benchmade Marc A. Lee tactical survival knife
• Timex WS4 Expedition multi-function compass watch
• Kelty Foraker (-15 degree F/26 degree C) Down sleeping bag

About 650-Fill Insulation

Let’s talk about that 650-fill insulation as we have written about the various grades and qualities of goose down insulation before. The highest quality goose down is considered 850-, 800-, and 750-fill range. These are the best, hand-selected, goose down filaments money can buy. Products in this range are expedition-quality often used in gear for high-profile ascents on Mount Everest and the great peaks; the price is also great.

Parkas, pants, sleeping bags using down in the 700- to 750-fill range are also expedition quality and provide the insulation needed to keep a body warm in sub-zero weather; but the price is a little lower for these products. Jackets and gear using 700-and 750-fill down are fully capable of doing the job they are designed for.

Now, the 650-fill insulation used in the Mountain  Hardwear Sub-zero SL Parka is comprised of 85 percent  down and 15 percent feathers. That’s okay, this is also a fully expedition capable piece of kit. This parka is practical, especially if you’re activities and uses are not limited to sipping tea at Everest’s Camp IV or feeding the lamas at base camp in a blizzard. Yet to get the same level of warmth for the SL’s retail price of slightly less than $400.00 U.S, in a parka with pure goose down in the 800-to 850-fill category, you can expect to pay about a grand. The parka with 800- to 850-fill down might be a little lighter, loft a little quicker, and perhaps provide a little more warmth. But all the core design elements, durability, and advanced materials used in modern parkas are built into the Mountain Hardwear Sub-Zero SL Parka.  That’s probably the biggest Aha! Moment we discovered about the SL… it’s worth it!

SD BTU Parka: Serious warmth for wicked cold!

Sierra Designs cuts to the chase in severe weather with the BTU parka. We had the BTU out in icy-cold weather on several trips requiring the outer layer of insulation to not only provide warmth, but a primary barrier to piercing wind-chill, driving snow, freezing rain, and designed for maximum mobility.

These aren’t easy characteristics to build into a mountaineering jacket, yet these qualities make the Sierra Designs BTU jacket their top level performance parka for several reasons we experienced that makes this parka one of our future go-to pieces of cold weather gear.

For starters, the Sierra Designs BTU parka is aesthetically pleasing and non-puffy. Oh, the puff factor is there, but it’s contained on the interior of the parka. It can be worn in the harshest ice-laden, wind-crazy conditions whether you are in the backcountry or a more civilized environment. The weatherproof outer fabric is not only tear resistant, but it has that aesthetic thing going for it; it looks good in our perspective.

Brother Bernard burrows into the SD BTU on a 20-degree day at 7,000 feet elevation.

Now, we wouldn’t give a second thought to wearing the BTU parka into the main lobby of The Peaks Resort in Telluride, Colorado during a blizzard or a crystal clear 0° day. You can wear it anywhere, on any freezing day, in any city, country, or winter playground around the world. And to think it was designed for extreme mountaineering work is just another feather in the cap. It’s a serious cold weather alpine jacket, but it is not limited to the place it is worn. That’s what is cool about this jacket.

And the BTU outer shell is completely waterproof and breathable because of the Tropozone technology used in the fabric.  Insulation next to the body is comprised of 800-fill goose down that generates warmth when you are not active, but with enough ventilation options built into the parka to manage the heat when burning calories during mountaineering, or any cold-weather activity. This is not a parka you can easily stuff into a stuff sack for backpacking; it’s a little more purposely built to be the primary insulation for a day of crampons and ice axin’. It’s a heat source, no doubt, and it may be too warm for some activities. But realize this: even when your core heats up to the point you’ll slip out of the BTU for a couple minutes or longer, you know it is “the” safety zone when your body chills down and becomes affected by the true low temperatures you are operating in. We didn’t see less than five degrees below zero, but this parka is certainly good for much colder temps than we experienced.

BTU is generously cut and designed to allow under-layering apparel to be worn with complete mobility of the arms and upper torso. A shorter-cut hem allows the mountaineer to wear climbing gear, pack, or harness without the jacket hanging up below the hip belt or web gear. Storm closures permit you to seal out snow or cold air intrusion from the parka’s hemline. These adjustments are also found at waist level.

BTU's down insulated hood is fully adjustable and roomy enough for wearing optional headgear.

Enough room is built into the insulated parka hood so you can wear a climbing helmet, or headgear used for a myriad of activities such as search and rescue, law enforcement, or highway maintenance. The down-insulated hood is totally adjustable from the top-rear of the hood and at each side of the face. Enough fabric is built in to the transition between your neck and your chin to snuggle into the warmth chamber without interfering with your forward vision.

We wish more upper arm, zippered pockets were designed into all cold weather jackets. The BTU features a good-sized, absolutely weatherproof,  pocket on the upper left arm of jacket, easily reachable with the right hand for stored items like yo’ money or compass.  It would be a nice touch to offer the BTU for us left-handed folks, but they are still a welcome feature nonetheless.

A larger zipped pocket on the upper left side chest area is handy for storing your gloves when working with bare hands. Two zippered, and flannel-lined, hand warmer pockets are large enough to accommodate your paws with or without gloves on. On the interior of the BTU parka, deep storage pockets facilitate larger items like water bottles or whiskey flasks kept close to body heat. An upper left interior pocket with zipper closure secures your valuables. The BTU parka’s primary torso zipper worked flawlessly, even in the dark. That is huge for us. Full length Velcro-secured closures provide storm-welt sealing over the primary torso zipper, and we couldn’t ask for more from a parka. Same goes for the Velcro closures on the wrist cuffs aided by elastic in the cuff ends. All the adjustable draw cords at the parka hem, waist, hood, and neck areas allowed us to tailor ventilation and fit.

While the Sierra Designs BTU parka is available in Black, Brick/Granite as color options, ours is the Vine/Granite color scheme. We found the green and grey color to be very sociable when wearing the BTU for everyday winter warmth. Some cold-weather parkas are so bright and scream “look at me” or “find me quick,” that they are less appropriate for blowing into an office building during a snow storm in the course of a business day. For all the warmth and ruggedness the BTU parka delivers in a mountaineering environment, those same qualities play very well for wearing it to the office on any winter day. The warmth is guaranteed whilst the styling is practical and subtly always in style.

SD BTU with backpack for the night hike.

Overall, this SD BTU parka meets every feature/benefit the manufacturer claims with regard to performance and warmth. Yes, we can recommend the Sierra Design BTU Parka. How they kept the initial investment to less than a grand while insulating with 800-fill goose down, we may never know. Many strategic manufacturing and business decisions are limited to the trade off in quality components vs. cost to build at a reasonable expectation of return. All we can deduce is that Sierra Designs has achieved economy of scale and design in a parka that actually gives the wearer an expectation of safety and confidence in killer cold conditions.

Review and photography by Rick Shandley

Specifications:

Sizes: S, M, L, XL, XXL

MSRP: $299.00

Colors: Vine/Granite, Brick/Granite, Black

Gear Source List:

• Sierra Designs BTU Jacket
• Lowe-Alpine Cerro Torre 65:85 backpack
• Kelty Foraker -15 Down Sleeping Bag
• Merrell Outbound backpacking boots
• Mt. Khakis Original Alpine pants
• Timex WS4 Expedition Watch

850 fill power premium northern European goose down is the best you can do for insulation on any mountain.

Here’s the jacket you can live in up to 26,000 feet elevation, before slipping in to the full-body version for the twilight assault to the summit. On Mt. Everest, that would be another 3, 035 feet straight up and your insulation system needs to be as tough as you’ve become to get you to that point.

First Ascent brings you this super-warm jacket filled with 850 fill power premium northern European goose down. The Peak XV is available in men’s and woman’s sizes. Your two color options for men are Dark Lava (a coal-ember red) and Black as in “lights-out.” Women’s colors are a light purple and a light charcoal.

Here’s some of the specifications you’ll need to make your purchase decision:

• Integrated hood fits over your climbing helmet
• Unequaled warmth, compressibility, and lightweight
• 850 fill power premium norther European goose down
• Water resistant shell made from stout 22-Denier fabric
• Turtling collar shields your face from bitter cold and wind
• Pockets are lined with brushed Tricot to keep your digits dextrous
• Men’s back lenght is 26.75″
• Weight is 26.34 oz

It’s so rare to truly get recommendations on products like the First Ascent Peak XV from most low-altitude earth dwellers. So listen to what two of the most accomplished heavyweight expedition mountaineers have to say about “the” jacket they wear when it’s time for “Parkas on!”

“My Peak XV is the perfect loft and weight for the big muntains I work on. It moves with me and doesn’t get in my way while protecting me from serious cold, yet it packs down neat and small when things get more civilized.” — Dave Hahn

“From the Antarctic blizzards to Himalayan summits, this jacket will heat you up. Nothing beats 850-fill down for insulation and packability. Take this jacket n your next extreme adventure.” Ed Viesturs

First Ascent Peak XV is available through www.whittakermountaineering.com and retails for about $269.00