Being the first man to hike to the North Pole, South Pole and the summit of Mount Everest in 333 days is a feat in iteself. To do it for research on global warming may expand this feat to new heights by gaining valuable information on the phenomonen and impact how we move forward on protecting our planet.

On January 6, 2010 Laresn and his team completed a 750 mile ski traverse to the South Pole, which took him 48 days. Larsen and a separate taem then reached the North Pole on April 22nd, after a 51-day, 500 mile trek that required snowshoeing and skiing across constantly shifting ice.

Larsen hopes that his feat of reaching the most polar reagions of our planet will help bring forward environmental issues that may be impacting climate changes on our planet. 

Larsen has partnered with the Wolf Ridge Environmental Learning Center and the Protect Our Winters Foundation to provide a climate change curriculum available as a free download on the expedition’s web site. Larsen will also team up with the Center for Biological Diversity to petition Congress and the President on the need for stronger climate legislation. For more information, visit www.savethepoles.com

Eric Larsen is the first person to reach the North Pole, South Pole and the summit of Mount Everest within a 365 day period.

Apa Sherpa on South Summit of Mt. Everest. Image: Apa Sherpa Foundation.

By Rick Shandley and Kimberlee Frederick

Photography: All Marshall Thompson images, and others, are attributed to the Apa Sherpa Foundation

“Everest is never easy. Every time it is hard. This time it was just as difficult as all the others.” That’s what Apa Sherpa said when asked whether his latest summit of Mt. Everest was any easier than the 19 Everest summits he already survived.

Much has been documented about Apa Sherpa. His 20 summits of Mt. Everest as of 2010, stand alone. However, Apa Sherpa is a humble human being who is driven, not by Mt. Everest, but his beloved people of Nepal and the country itself.

Apa Sherpa at Mt. Everest base camp. Photo: Apa Sherpa Foundation.

“Nobody knows much about Nepal, but everybody knows about Everest,” Apa Sherpa said in a recent interview with Fresh Air Junkie. His goal for that historical 20^th summit was to use his accomplishments as a way to get the word out about important causes he is determined to move forward. His priority for 2010 is to provide education for children, care for the mountain, and clean up the environment. “My goal is better education,” he said.

“The reason I’ve done this 20 times is because I’d like to help education in Nepal, he said. Also, I want to clean up the environment. We need to get the mountain clean.” Although Apa Sherpa, his wife and children now call a little hamlet near Salt Lake City, Utah home, he has never forgotten the challenges of growing up in poverty and disadvantage.

But instead of resentment, he channels his kind nature into the possibilities he can work towards in order to effect positive change. It’s kind of like dreaming of the challenge of climbing Mt. Everest, and then doing it…twenty times. Apa Sherpa changed his own life by becoming the best. Now he seizes upon his acclaim to make life better by giving his best to his fellow Sherpa.

Apa Sherpa Foundation

On March 28, 2010, the formation of the Apa Sherpa Foundation was completed. But for many years, decades in fact, Apa Sherpa has dedicated himself to helping his Thames, Nepal home village, his countrymen, and champion educational opportunities for Sherpa children.

The Foundation strategy is to encourage children to learn about their Sherpa culture, their country, and the educational opportunities to work, support their families, and participate in a thriving homeland. Teachers and individuals that will share knowledge and instruct youngsters are core factors in order to build upon and disseminate the Foundations goals at home, and radiate outwards from there. “This year, education is number one. Without education, there is no choice. We have very poor education in Nepal, and I’d like to help with that.” Included in this desire is to help the young men and women of Nepal to use their education and talents to help their native land to thrive, rather than leave for some distant country and another way of life.

The State of the Mountain

Receding glaciers and snowpack is evident on Mt. Everest, and so is the discarded remnants of previous expeditions. Apa works with his Sherpa countrymen and individuals from around the world to climb, retrieve, and pack the flotsam and jetsam of high-elevation conquest of expeditions gone by. There’s still a lot of work to do to free Everest of the garbage, but Apa and many people continue to police the mountain.

Up on the mountain this year, the 2010 Everest expedition took almost two months. “It was not only for climbing, we cleaned as we

Climbers install equipment to measure glacial change adjacent to Khumbu Ice Fall. Photo: Apa Sherpa Foundation.

went,” he said. In all they packed out about 12,000 pounds of garbage. “I joined Eco Expedition for the last three years,” he said. “Every year we clean up, but every year there is more and more garbage,” Sherpa said. In no way is this observation a slight on the mountain, but a situation that is being addressed with passion. It’s an uphill climb to get all the oxygen bottles and hardware left on the mountain, but it’s something that will get done as subsequent Eco Expeditions benefit from more volunteer climbers and more awareness to reduce artifacts left behind by future climbing parties.

Just prior to his summit climb for 2010, Apa Sherpa went up on Everest a few days early to retrieve a different type of remnant from the mountain. This climb was to retrieve the human remnants of climbers who lost their lives to Everest. The locations of dead bodies are sometimes known.  Sometimes they become visible as snowpack recedes.  Some bodies have laid in-state within the ice for decades, only to reappear at the bottom of the Khumbu Ice Fall. Each body of a deceased climber that is recovered is regarded with the honor and dignity all human beings deserve.   This year the search and recovery climb team was able to bring down three bodies; all to eventually be reunited with family, country, and a proper internment.

Sherpa also noted that big changes in the temperature have had an impact on the mountain. More exposed rock, less snow and ice on sections of the mountain that used to be frozen since man’s beginning. “It’s “more rocky now,” he said. Receding glacier is occurring around the globe. Science wants to understand it. What’s gone is gone. Yet, if there are solutions to prevent this, Apa Sherpa and his fellow mountaineers want people to tank-up on education and participation that might lead to further erosion and a warming trend that bodes ill for humanity.

Although Apa Sherpa has seen many changes on Mt. Everest, the challenge of the 2010 climb is no less or no more daunting. There were, “no new challenges, but it’s not easy,” he said. Perhaps it takes a day less for Apa to become accustomed to the higher elevations, but the dangers of the mountain continue without pause. And though his 20 Everest summits set him apart, Apa Sherpa would love to see others from his country excel beyond his high-water mark.

Alpa Sherpa and Suunto

At any elevation along the upper reaches of the 29,029 foot Mt. Everest, reliance on a mountaineering watch for compass bearings, elevation, weather information, and temperature is a matter of life and death.

Apa Sherpa on summit of Mt. Everest whipping out the Suunto banner. Photo: Apa Sherpa Foundation.

In regards to one of his major sponsors and partners in his venture to educate and improve lives, Apa Sherpa considered Suunto and the precision instruments that he relies upon on his journeys above tree line. “There’s a lot of watches, but not like a Suunto watch,” he said. And he has had to rely on plenty of expedition-grade timepieces. Speaking about the Suunto CORE, Apa gave us his take: “It has a lot of functions, and all of them are important for climbing.

Functions like alarms must not only wake the climber up, but they must signal the “death zone” and benchmarks along the route to provide the climber with critical information.  “I know there are many watches, but none of the watches I have are like a Suunto. I’ve used (Suunto watches) since 2003.”

Often times the information the climbing party observes with their eyes are also corroborated with readings provided by the climber’s on-wrist timepiece, barometer, altimeter, and bar-chart graphics. Armed with this level of information, the climbers must assess their situation and make go, no-go decisions about the climb at any level of the overall attempt.

And to commemorate his world record of 20 Everest summits, Sunnto built a watch in Apa Sherpa’s honor, the Suunto Core Extreme Edition Everest. Only 8,848 Sunnto CORE high-altitude expedition watches will be produced, one for every vertical meter that represents the height of Mt. Everest.

Any fund raising activity Apa Sherpa is involved in contributes to the operations of his foundation. So there will be many potential revenue streams by which the Apa Sherpa Foundation can do more. “In the future, we’d like to raise even more money for the environment, but right now the focus is on education.”

Apa Sherpa: Future Plans

For a gentleman who, at age 12, began his journey into the heights of the Himilaya’s hauling mountaineering gear and learning his

Sherpa children of Thames School in Apa's home village of Thames in Nepal. Photo: Apa Sherpa Foundation

profession, one might wonder what the future holds for Apa Sherpa. He has survived 20 expeditions to the top of the world. He would have his fellow Sherpa beat his world record. He only wants to help the youngsters of his homeland benefit from education as his own children in Utah. Apa Sherpa’s passion for speaking about climatic changes and the ruthless effects on the Himalaya Mountains and its people have presented him new challenges and new opportunities to speak for his people, and to the people of the world who will hear his words.

In October, Apa Sherpa heads to Canada to raise money and speak about the issues he wants to do something about. He plans to continue giving speeches about his culture, his causes with education, and about Mt. Everest, and his many summit experiences.

Looking down the trail, Apa Sherpa hopes to spend time trekking, writing books and raising funds for his causes in Nepal. On this front his target is still about the children. “My focus is raise money to help with education.”

But what about tagging the big peak one more time? Is there a 21^st ascent to the cloud enshrouded heavens around Mt. Everest in Apa Sherpa’s plans for 2011? “I have not decided yet. We have plenty of time. Maybe I will, maybe not,” he said. “If I don’t climb, I’m going to write a book.”

Learn and Participate at: www.apasherpafoundation.com and www.apasherpa.com

On the 47th day of the Save The Poles Expedition, Eric Larsen and his team reached the South Pole on January 4th 2010. This is the first leg of this expedition in which Larsen and his team will attempt to reach the South Pole, North Pole and top Mt. Everest in a continuous 365-day period.

The purpose of the Save The Poles Expedition is to document the changes at these important locations and to be at the front lines of the global warming debate. Larsen is also hoping that the expedition will also bring awareness to improving strategies and awareness to reduce carbon footprints, while collecting important data that can be analyzed. “This expedition will tell the story of these remote places so we can better understand how our actions affect the poles and ultimately the planet,” says Larsen.

Eric Larsen finished his first part of a three leg expedition by reaching the South Pole. He will attempt to reach the North Pole and summit Mt. Everest to bring awareness to the effects of Global Warming. Photo by Eric Larson

The second leg of the Save The Poles Expedition will begin March 1st to reach the NorthPole. During this leg of the expedition, Larsen will be working with the Wolf Ridge Environmental Learning Center and the Protect Our Winters Foundation, to provide additional curriculum materials and tools for teachers who will be preparing students for these issues.

At the same time, Larsen will be petitioning the U.S. Senate and the President on the need for stronger climate legislation. Assisting him in this endeavor, is the Center For Biological Diversity.

For more information on Eric Larsen visit www.savethepoles.com

In 365 Days Eric Larson plans to summit Everest and reach the North and South Poles to study the effects of Global Warming.

It seems like a daunting task, but Eric Larson is determined to reach the ends of the earth to reach what he calls the front lines of global warming. At each location, Larson will take measurements and use the expedtion as a platform to advocate new strategies for reducing carbon emissions.

“This expedition will tell the story of these remote places so we can better understand how our actions affect the poles and ultimately the planet,” Larsen says. “We all need to be reminded that we must act now to stop global warming.”

Eric Larson plans to summit Everest and reach the North and South poles in 365 days.

Assisting Larson is the Wolf Ridge Environmental Learning Center and the Protect Our Winters Foundation, who will help to produce 12 hours of climate change curriculum. This will provide teachers with the tools and information needed to prepare and educate students on global warming and how it may affect their future. Larsen will also team up with the Center for Biological Diversity to petition the Senate and President on the need for stronger climate legislation.

A member of The Explorer’s Club, Larsen isn’t new to the world of polar exploration. Larsen completed the first-ever summer expedition to the North Pole in 2006 where he pulled and paddled modified canoes over 600 miles of shifting sea ice and open ocean. In January 2009, Larsen successfully led an international team to the geographic South Pole becoming one of only a few Americans to ski to both poles.

Larson’s trip couldn’t come at a much more appropriate time. Scientists estimate that by summer 2030, the Arctic Ocean will be ice-free. Recently, the 1,250 square mile Larsen B Ice Shelf collapsed off of Antarctica and disintegrated into the Southern Ocean. A report by the UN’s Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change forecasts that if current trends continue, 80 percent of Himalayan glaciers will be gone in 30 years. While we are seeing the most dramatic changes in the polar and higher altitude regions, global warming is an issue that affects us all. For more information, visit www.savethepoles.com

View of Mt. Everest from Kala Patthar in Nepal. Photo license: Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 2.5.

At 29, 035-feet above sea level, Mt. Everest does not discriminate between a human life and its own inanimate will. That said, Team II with Dave Hahn and his Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. climbers have reached the summit at 6:45 a.m. in Nepal on May 23, 2009.

But the weather has turned icy and wicked. Ugly-swift winds and inclement conditions allowed no more than two minutes for the team to acknowledge their accomplishment then get off the top as safely and quickly as possible.

Without hesitation, Hahn’s team made their way back to the South Col camp for some rest and nourishment and adescended to Camp II at 21,200 feet elevation.

After more than 45-days of acclimatization, commuting between Base Camp (17,500 feet elevation) and Camp IV (26,200 feet elevation) and frequent training climbs, the team headed upwards in clear sky about 11:00 p.m. on May 22, 2009, Nepal time (Nepal is 12-hours ahead of us on the U.S. West Coast). 

Earlier, high winds at the South Col (Camp IV), blowing snow, and extremely cold wind-chill conditions threatened to temper an earlier-than-planned assault to the highest point on this planet. But right now, it’s a go. The team suited up for their late night departure.  

Regardless of superior physical conditioning, willpower, skill, and energy, any prolonged stay at almost five miles altitude can drain man or woman of their ability to survive another day. Weight loss alone will deplete the most robust human body from the ability to store enough calories to survive. This malaise goes even deeper. That’s when the calorie-starved body no long has an appetite. Retreat to lower altitude would be the only feasible option.

Peter Whittaker and Ed Viesturs make their way towards the summit of Mt. Everest.

In a radio conversation from Camp IV to Base Camp, Team leader, Dave Hahn updated base camp manager, Linden Mallory of the team’s plans. It was around 10:00 p.m. on May 22, in Nepal, and it was time to make a decision to fish or cut bait. “I think we are going to go ahead with the “walking at midnight” plan. We still got wind here but here at the South Col it’s maybe 15[mph] at the moment,” Hahn said as his team was preparing tea and food. There “doesn’t appear to be any cloud caps on the summit. No high clouds.”

At 10:55 p.m., they started walking towards the summit. The team consisted of four climbers and five Sherpa, each with their own thoughts and fears; each individual calling up the determination that would test them to the rev-limiter in the next few hours. Hahn and his two colleagues, guides Seth Waterfall and Melissa Arnot, along with climber/videographer, Kent Harvey, began their pilgrimage to the stars. Five experienced Sherpa, whose mountaineering wisdom and capabilities make climbing Mt. Everest a possibility, trudged upward with them.

If they were to wait, weather forecasts in the next few days could prohibit another attempt. Besides that, time, resources and dozens of climbers from around the world looking to conquer the summit, all weigh on the window of opportunity for any one team.

Each extra day a human spends in the rarified atmosphere between 23, 750 feet to 26,000 feet elevation and above is one more day on supplemental oxygen, one more day exposing limbs and soul to extreme conditions. The danger of high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE means shortage of oxygen). There’s also the chance of frostbite due to lack of oxygen to the feet and hands, not to leave out the piercing, wind-driven cold. Many variables compound the challenge each climber must contend with; including self-doubt.

But now it’s 2:45 a.m. Nepal time on May 23, 2009 as Dave Hahn’s team has just past the Balcony and they are on their way to the South Summit of Mt. Everest at 28,700 feet elevation. Hahn’s team is out of radio contact at this moment, but Base Camp was able to communicate with the team who said they were okay, and underway.

Updates from Base Camp confirmed that Hahn’s team had reached the summit of Mt. Everest. Last we heard, the team was tucked in at Advance Base Camp (21,300 feet elevation). Then they’ll make their way down-mountain with the Khumbu Icefall section between them and their friends who have monitored every second of the climb.

We trust all of Whittaker Mountaineering, Rainier Mountaineering, and Eddie Bauer’s new First Ascent teams will have a great Memorial Day once they get settled back at Base Camp.

You can read the entire account of the 2009 expedition to Mt. Everest by going to www.rmiguides.com and www.firstascent.com (go to Blog tab).

TEAM ONE SUMMITS ON MAY 19, 2009

Peter Whittaker climbs towards the summit of Mt. Everest as a new day greets Nepal.

On Tuesday, Peter Whittaker and Ed Viesturs of Rainier Mountaineering Inc. (RMI) topped out on Everest after waiting out an extra day at South Col due to harsh weather and wild winds.

Ed Viesturs, making his 7^th ascent of Mt. Everest had planned to make the summit without supplemental oxygen. But wisdom held the highest hand, and it was Ed’s hand that held the cards:

 “When I originally camed to the mountain here, hoping to make my seventh ascent, my plan and my desire was to try to climb again without the use of supplemental oxygen, simply for the challenge and purity of the ascent,” Viesturs said. “But to do that, conditions would need to be perfect.

“As we were at the South Col, and as conditions played out, we had to spend an additional day waiting at 26,000-feet at High Camp.

“I also started to look at the weather conditions, knowing that on our summit bid, on the day were going to go, it would be very cold, very windy. And there would be, probably, a lot of people on the route, meaning that I couldn’t climb as fast as I could simply to stay warm.

Ed Viesturs celebrates his 7th summit of Mt. Everest, May 19, 2009.

“So in the end, after a lot of deliberation, I made the decision for the sake of safety, for the sake of group dynamics, and for the sake of knowing that I couldn’t climb fast enough to stay warm enough, that I would then opt to use supplemental oxygen,” Viesturs said:

Well, it’s Memorial Day weekend in the U.S.A., and it appears both of the First Ascent/Whittaker Mountaineering teams, Sherpa, and photographers are safe and healthy.  At least for the moment, it looks like a successful 2009 expedition for American’s on Mt. Everest.

Story by: Rick Shandley

Photos by RMI and Whittaker Mountaineering — Note: Lead Photo Caption: This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 2.5 License

Sometimes the best thing you can do is nothing at all. That’s how mountaineer Dave Hahn looked at it while waiting out periodic snow showers and cloud encroachment. It wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t time to venture up to the newly established Camp 3 at 23, 400 feet elevation either. It was simply time to wait.

So Hahn and his team occupied themselves during the snowy stand-down at Camp 2 or Advanced Base Camp (ABC) on Mt. Everest May 3, 2009.  Sunday was scheduled as a rest day, so Hahn and his team whipped out their journals, I-pods, and picnic supplies to idle through the hours and recharge their human condition.

“I’ve long considered such skills to be the mark of a good expedition climber — the ability to do nothing, when nothing is what should be done,” Hahn said from the 21, 300 foot elevation of Camp 2. “For active (or hyperactive) Type-A climbers this requires an acceptance and a faith that there will be an abundance of physical abuse and over stimulated synapses, all in good time…like, say, tomorrow.”

The rest of the world following along on this climb, also wait to find out what Dave Hahn along with his team and Peter Whittaker are up to, as they reach for the summit of the Mt. Everest at its apex of 29,035 feet. Dave Hahn has summated Mt. Everest at least 10 times so far.  This could be his 11th?

You can follow along with Dave and his team by reading his posts from Mt. Everest by visiting www.firstascent.com and click on the Blog tab. First Ascent is a new line of mountaineering equipment from Eddie Bauer, a traditionally legendary expedition outfitter long before they got into winter and spring fashion wear. We’ll be following up with the new First Ascent line of gear, and hopefully a visit with Dave Hahn in the near future.

By Rick Shandley