Photo: Jimmy Chin

Kit DesLauriers, a champion skier and the first person to ski down the highest summits of every continent, shares her knowledge of training and supplement use to perform at high levels.

Many outdoor enthusiasts put their bodies to extreme levels of performance without really thinking about the consequences of their actions. Sure it’s fun to climb an ice waterfall, ski down a 12,000 foot peak or even jump off hard packed ramps on a snowboard all day long. But your body often pays the price if you don’t properly train and supplement it with the nutrients it needs to recover.

Kit DesLauriers knows first hand the toll that skiing and climbing can have on your body. Hiking up some of the world’s tallest peaks and skiing down them is a feat in itself; especially when she became the first American and woman to ski down the summit of Mt. Everest. With this kind of achievement, DesLaurier’s experience proves that training and supplementation are key to achieving the performance you’re looking for and reducing the chance of injury.

While you may not be planning on skiing down the tallest peaks in each continent, DesLauriers does suggest taking each goal you set for yourself in small increments; always making sure to rest properly before heading back to work or your next ski slope. “When the objective is something fairly intense, it’s important to realize that the body doesn’t want to perform at a super high level all the time,” says DesLauriers. “ Set your schedule so you work up to things. Plan to peak a week or even a couple of weeks before the goal, then give yourself a little breather so you can rest.”

Hard training can lead to burnout if your body isn’t fully recovered. DesLauriers suggests that proper rest and drinking lots of water as well as taking supplements will help while you’re training. “I love to follow a hard workout with a protein shake, as it speeds my recovery,” she says. “ I also feel a multivitamin as well as additional vitamin C and omega-3’s are super important.”

Nutriex Sport is a multi-vitamin that contains glucosamine and chondroitin, as well as minerals, vitamins and natural antioxidants that can help with recovery.

Although DesLauriers is a strong believer in eating whole foods to get all the nutrients possible, she also knows that supplements are a necessary part of her training. “I can remain at my optimum if I supplement with extra vitamins,” she says. “It helps my body adjust to the rapidly changing seasons and altitudes I experience. I take a multivitamin like Nutriex sport which helps support the particular needs of athletes and outdoor enthusiasts.”

DesLauriers had her meniscus repaired in 2002 and since then, she’s taken supplements to improve her performance post recovery. “When I realize that my knee is aching, I tend to also realize that I have fallen off my regimen of daily supplements. What always remains consistent is that I eat extremely healthy. So that tells me that the multivitamins like Nutriex really is a huge help.”

Amazingly after recovering from her knee injury, DesLauriers went on to win the women’s World Free skiing Championships, in 2004 and again in 2005. DesLauriers is also a certified Wilderness Emergency Medical Technician, a Telluride Professional Ski Patroller, a Rescue 3 International low to high angle rope rescue instructor, and a Helicopter Rescue Technician.

DesLauriers and other outdoor athletes, agree that adding proper nutrients and rest to your extreme outdoor activities will ultimately keep you injury free and at peak performance. For more information on an outdoor specific multivitamin like Nutriex, visit www.nutriex.com.

By David Shelby

Winter is a great time to enjoy the outdoors but lots of people still head out into frigid temperatures with nothing more than denim jeans and a zip-up hoodie.  Having the right apparel and knowing how it works is essential to enjoying the outdoors during the winter season. Here are 10 tips to keep in mind when considering what to wear when you’re headed outdoors.

1) To keep from losing heat, you have to cover everything. This means wearing a hat, gloves, waterproof footwear and in extreme conditions a face mask.

2) Know how your winter apparel works. There are many types of synthetic materials that keep in heat and wick away moisture. Now how to properly layer each item and maintain proper warmth for your activity level. It doesn’t do you any good if your snow jacket is breathable if your cotton t-shirt is soaked from perspiration while snowboarding.

3) Don’t worry about how you look. Heavy insulating apparel such as goose down jackets, or layered systems consisting of a wicking shirt, fleece pull-over and breathable shell will appear bulky. It’s better to look like you belong on the slopes rather than freeze and risk injury.

4) Pay attention to temperatures and dress accordingly. Temperatures can reach below Zero when you’re night skiing or out on snow mobiles. If you plan on being out in sub zero temperatures, your apparel had better be expedition rated.  If it’s not, get indoors before the sun goes down.

5) Use those vents in your jackets and shirts. Even in winter, you can work up a sweat snowshoeing, skiing or taking on the half-pipe with your snowboard. Use the vents in your garment to regulate the heat, instead of taking off your jacket or layers of clothing, which could lead to hypothermia, especially if you’ve been perspiring.

6) If you’re headed out into extreme cold, wear mittens over gloves. Mittens have less surface area and thus retain heat better than gloves.

7) Use electric or heated gloves, shoes or socks if you have poor circulation. Many of us love the outdoors but have poor circulation to our hands and feet. Electric socks and gloves can greatly reduce pain from the cold in those areas and can save  you from frostbite.

8) Don’t take manufacturer’s claims for cold comfort ratings as solid fact. There’s no regulation for how manufacturer’s test their apparel for cold so it’s often left up to them to test.  Some may do better than others at being accurate but it’s always best to be conservative.

9) Drink lots of water. Surprisingly, dehydration plays a major factor in winter outdoor activities. Most people don’t realize they’re not thirsty because the body is fighting off cold and they don’t always feel overheated.

10) Avoid alcohol. Although it’s tempting to have a beer after a full-day run on the slopes or a 50 mile trek on your snowmobile.  But alcohol actually lowers your body’s core temperature and can hurt you while dealing with extreme temperatures.

Warm weather skiing and snowboarding can present wet-avalanche dangers. Learn how to spot the warning signs with a simple thermometer.

By Donny Roth

While the spring ski season is renowned for a more stable snowpack, most everyone is aware of the dangers presented by wet-slides.  Spring is the time of year that most neophytes choose to enter the realm of ski mountaineering. Even the most novice ski mountaineers know they must start early when the average daily temperatures climb higher, but how do you determine when it’s too late?

“I think we should be off the face by…“

This is a common statement that is often heard during evening planning sessions and discussions along the approach.  While you may come to the correct answer with this statement, using time of day to determine whether a slope is dangerous, is not the proper approach.  With enough historical information, you may be able to get close using a time estimate, but your watch is not really the critical instrument for making the call to turn around or not.

As an example, I was out skiing great terrain until two o’clock in the afternoon on a sunny day, with temperatures in the fifties.  Then, two days later, I didn’t even start up the trail when the temperature reached forty degrees and the sky was completely cloud covered at 3:30AM.  So clearly, time is not the determining factor.

Use a basic dial thermometer to measure snow and air temperature to determine avalanche danger. At a cost of $10, it's an inexpensive tool that can possibly save a life.

Wet-snow avalanches occur when there is enough free water in the snow pack to loosen up the grains in the snow and allow them to slide.  This can be difficult to determine, but be sure that it’s not at your watch that you need to be looking at.  The tool you need for spotting signs of an avalanche is a high-quality thermometer.

Some good examples of this are from Brooks-Range Mountaineering Equipment. They have two varieties of high-quality thermometers that are made for this application; a  Dial-Stem Thermometer (see it on their site), and a Digital Thermometer (see it on their site).  Dial-stems allow the user to calibrate the thermometer to ensure accuracy for many years.  Digital thermometers are simple to use, and read temperatures to a tenth-of-a-degree.

Use the thermometer to measure the temperature of the air and the snow.  While measuring air temperature, you must find a way to suspend the thermometer a meter-and-a-half above the snow.  Generally, fastening it to your ski tip, with the tail plunged in the snow, is a good way to accomplish this.  If the air temperature is above 0°C (32°F) then there is potential for wet-snow avalanches.

Another factor regarding air temperature is the diurnal freezing cycle.  Is it getting below freezing at night?  For how long?  If the snow didn’t get a good freeze overnight, then it won’t take long for those grains to loosen up once the temperature climbs above freezing in the morning.  If it didn’t freeze at all, then you better keep away from hazard areas like steep slopes and cornices.

Digital thermometers are also easy and fast to use. Just make sure that it has fresh batteries when you head out into the snow covered back country.

We all love to ski while it’s warm out.   And I have personally made many fantastic, steep descents while the air temperature was above freezing and the snow was warming.  The question is, “To what depth is the snow temperature zero degrees?”  Take out your thermometer and look for how much snow is isothermic – or consistently zero degrees.  If the isothermic layer extends to a good glide layer – like an old crust or a grassy slope at the base – then there is a good potential for wet-slide activity.

So the next time you’re headed out for a classic, spring descent of a corn-covered peak, bring along a good thermometer.  Instead of looking at your watch, take a few temperature readings.  Sometimes, you’ll have to change your plan earlier than expected. Other times you’ll get to stay out for an extra lap.

Snowshoeing is fun and easy to do. Here’s how to select the right pair before you make some tracks.

Snowshoeing is a growing outdoor activity that not only offers excellent aerobic activity, but also allows you to enjoy the backcountry in unique way. The type and size of snowshoe is important to the type of conditions you’ll encounter, and your level of experience. Nevertheless, there are key factors into selecting the perfect set of snowshoes for your outdoor adventures.

Flotation

Flotation is a function of how the shoe allows you to evenly spread your body weight. Approximately 85 percent of the total flotation of the snowshoe occurs around the ball of the foot. Nevertheless, the length and width of the shoe determines its overall flotation in relationship with your body weight. So while an 80 lbs. kid can use a 20-inch snowshoe, a 200 lbs. adult may require a 30-inch design. The lengths range around 20-36 inches and you can aporoximate your weight if you want to avoid embarrassing yourself at the outdoor retailer.

This Crescent Moon Gold 9 series shoe is a popular design and size for all-round use. It weights 3.5 lbs. and is 27 inches in length, great for people up to 195 lbs.

The width of the show is typically proportional to the length so that the shoe remains balanced. For an average size and weight person, a 25 or 26 inch snowshoe will work well for an adult weighing 140-180 lbs. If you’re planning on using snowshoes for long backpacking trips into the backcountry, it’s important to also factor the weight of your pack as well. If you can’t make up your mind between lightweight versus length, keep in mind that it’s always better to sink in the snow a bit than to lift a heavy shoe for several miles.

Frame and Decking

The shoe’s frame and decking are also important to its overall flotation. A lightweight frame will make a huge difference after trekking several miles. Most frames have a teardrop shape that’s wider in front and narrower at the rear. It’s also important to know that women’s snowshoes are typically designed narrower at the rear, to accommodate for their natural stride. This helps keep the shoes from hitting each other as they walk. So don’t be tempted to get your wife or girlfriend a pair of men’s snowshoes for a killer deal at a rummage sale. Likewise, racing or fast trekking snowshoes are also narrower at the rear for people who want to run or walk quickly in the snow.

To keep the weight low, most modern shoe frames are made from aluminum tubing. You may find that some are offered in traditional wood designs, but most experienced snowshoe enthusiasts will recommend getting the lightest shoes possible. Some are made from a single piece of aluminum, but most are welded at the tail. The use of TIG welded (using tungsten inert gas) is best as it provides a stronger bond, but we’ve never seen a snowshoe come apart at the frame.

Originally, snowshoe decking was made from animal skin or leather. Now, decking is most often made from PVC or rubber coated nylon. In most designs, the flotation material is wrapped around the frame and riveted either into the frame or back into the flotation material itself. There’s not one advantage over the other, but some manufacturers will provide some kind of protection or add a cleat around the areas where the decking wraps around the frame, to prevent premature wear.

Binding

Look for a binding that can be operated easily. One-hand operation is best, but also make sure it fits snug without pinching or allowing the foot to move or slip.

The snowshoe’s binding is probably one of the most important factors in how much you will enjoy snowshoeing. When you’re in the cold and have gloves on, the last thing you want to do is hassle with getting them on and off. So it’s best to avoid any type of binding that lace up or doesn’t have a quick-on or quick-release system. Try on several snowshoes at your favorite outdoor retailer and test out the bindings. Make sure you also try them on with the same hiking boots or shoes that you intend to wear. Check to see if the bindings hold your foot in place securely and that your foot doesn’t move from side to side or is pinched in any way. The bindings should also be easily adjustable while you’re wearing them and should also be easy to remove; a one-had operation would be optimal.

Fixed and Free Rotation Shoes

The rotation of the binding is purely up to the style and design of the manufacturer. A fixed rotation shoe will only drop several inches once you lift your foot off the ground. While it does kick up snow onto your back and neck, it’s preferred by people who race or like to hike quickly in harder packed snow. They also find it easier to back up and maneuver from side to side, making it a good choice for beginners as well.

This Crescent Moon Gold 10 backcountry shoe is 30-inches in length and is best suited for long treks into the backcountry with a heavy pack.

A free rotation snowshoe will continually touch the ground as you lift your foot and is preferred for backcountry trips in deep snow. As the snow piles onto the rear of the shoe, the weight stays place and isn’t lifted with your foot. While the snowshoe drags on the ground, it also allows for the front toe to get a better bite on steep terrain.

Traction

Many snowshoes have crampon style traction systems to dig into the snow. Most have traction devices located at the ball of the foot and at the heel. Some provide three traction points and include a toe claw. This comes in very handy when climbing steep grades and for better all-round traction. Make sure that the traction claws are made from a rust-free material such as stainless steel. While titanium is lighter it’s also more expensive.

Be Prepared

No matter if it’s a 15-minute walk from your car or a 10 mile trek to set up a base camp, know the conditions you’re heading into and be prepared. Let people know when you’re leaving and when you will be returning. Bring enough food and water for your trip. Always use the layering method for your snowshoe trips. As you walk your body heats up you’ll tend to remove layers of clothing to keep cool. By knowing the basics of what makes up a snowshoe, you’ll make the best decision in your purchase and ultimately enjoy your snowshoe excursion even more.

By Dan Sanchez

People often ask me how to get ready for the ice climbing season. My answer is really pretty simple. I stay strong. You see, I’m the type of person who never lets herself get out of shape. This is mostly because I think it’s so much more work to get in shape than it is to stay in shape. But for me, climbing all year round is the best training for whatever season that comes up.

If you are a beginning climber or if you have been busy at a desk and haven’t been getting out as much as you would like, here are some of my quick tips for getting as ready for the ice climbing season as you can.

Lift Weights

Weight training for the upper body means that you have more strength to hold onto those ice axes and place those screws. It’s not everything, but it certainly helps. I have a bench right in my office and I like to do a workout comprised of presses, flies, triceps and arm curls, all performed with dumbbells.

Visit An Indoor Rock Gym

During the off-season or during those stretches when you can’t afford the time investment of real-world climbing, the indoor rock gym will keep your mind and body in tune with climbing and using all of the muscles on a regular basis.

Get Your Cardio

Run or do some type of cardio training so you don’t get winded from the approach to your climb. Not all areas have crags or climbs that are close to the road or accessible on flat ground. Cardiovascular training also helps deliver oxygen flow to your muscles, helping them to grow stronger and recover faster.

Hang Out At Home

If you can, build yourself a dry tooling board in your garage or back yard. If you’re not familiar with this, a dry tooling board is similar to a campus board that rock climbers use to practice their hand and finger holds. An ice climbing dry tooling board is the same, except there are holds built into the board that are made to secure your ice axe into. Nevertheless, building one at home allows you to hang off your ice climbing tools to practice in the spring and summer.

Once the ice arrives, I like to get out and get reacquainted with my equipment again. The best place to do this is at an ice climbing crag. Locate one near your area and take advantage of it as often as possible. I like to use Haffner Creek in the Canadian Rockies, or Ouray Canyon in Colorado. In either of these places, I typically set up a top rope and do laps until I feel like my arms are going to fall off. I also practice down climbing so that it feels natural when I need to do it on the sharp end.

If you are a beginner who likes to follow your partners up climbs, you have just made yourself into a more attractive rope mate by getting prepared. If you are a seasoned climber who just wants to get back into the groove, this early-season training regimen can give you that extra boost of confidence for getting back into the swing of things.

No matter how much you train, the important thing to remember is to have fun. Ice climbing is an exciting sport that can not only give you a greater sense of confidence, but also improve your athletic ability and strength.

Editor’s Note: Margo Talbot is a writer and climber based in British Columbia, Canada. Her memoir, “All That Glitters”, will be released in May 2011. Visit www.allthatglittersbook.com for more information.

A snow cave makes a great emergency shelter for back country skiers and snowboarders who get caught in bad weather situations.

When temperatures drop or winter storms bring strong winds and heavy snowfall, seasoned mountaineers prefer to sleep in a snow shelter, rather than a tent. A snow cave takes more time to build, but is more secure than a tent. In cold weather a snow cave is also much warmer.

Snow caves are best suited to locations where you can burrow into a snow-covered hillside. A strong and stable cave requires somewhat firm (consolidated) snow. The snow must also be deep enough to leave about two-feet of ceiling thickness.

Several people can shelter in one snow cave. A well-built cave dug in the firm snow is a very secure structure. However, if the outside temperature is warming toward freezing, a tree shelter may be a better choice. The weight of a collapsed snow-cave roof could cause serious injury to people underneath.

Find a short seven feet minimum – 30 to 40 degree slope or snow drift, that is clear of any potential avalanche hazard. It is easier to dig the cave into a steep slope than a gentle one. The snow must be deep enough that you will not hit ground before you finish excavating the entire cave. Dig an entry that is 1.5 feet wide and five feet high. Then create a construction-debris exit slot by digging a waist high platform centered on the entryway, forming a “T” that is four feet wide by 1.5 feet high.

Cutaway side view of a finished snow cave. Illustration by The Mountaineers Books.

Develop this platform so that it forms a horizontal slot extending into the slope, providing a temporary exit-way for all the snow being shoveled out as the interior of the cave is excavated. Excavate so that the cave floor is about six inches higher than the bottom level of the horizontal slot.

Create the main room of the cave by digging inward from the entry and expanding the room to the front, sides and upward; all directions except down. Shovel snow out through the horizontal slot. A second person working outside, can can clear the snow away.  Extend the original entry hallway another two feet into the slope permitting the excavator to get farther into the cave to continue excavating outward and upward. Now it should be nearly possible to stand inside. continue to excavate, now out of the wind. When enough snow has been cleared to to allow the excavator to sit upon the main cave floor, another person can enter and help continue to expand the cave in all directions except downward.

Excavate until the inside dimensions are about five feet from front to back, by seven feet wide and 3.5 feet high; a comfortable minimum for two people. Make the cave larger for more occupants but remember that a small cave is warmer than a larger one. Keep a minimum of two feet of firm snow on the slope above the cave ceiling to provide enough strength to keep the roof  from collapsing. Avoid building a flat ceiling. The more dome-shaped the ceiling contour, the stronger it will be and the less it will sag.

You can't build a snow shelter wihtout a shovel. This Brooks-Range Mini-Pro retails for under $40 bucks, weighs only 32.01 ounces, and features a telescoping handle.

Fill in the temporary horizontal slot with snow blocks; one large block or two smaller blocks leaning against each other may be sufficient to close the slot. Cut any spaces around the blocks with snow. The top of the completed entrance tunnel should be at leas six inches lower than the cave floor, keeping war air in the cave and cold drafts out. Use snow blocks to build a wind-screening wall on either side of the entry path. Poke a pair of ski-pole basket sized ventilation holes through the ceiling of the cave from the inside out. This is important to prevent asphyxiation of the snow cave occupants. If it gets too warm inside the cave, enlarge these holes. Remember to not use a camp stove inside the cave. Cook outside at the entrance open air.

Smooth the domed ceiling of the cave’s interior so that it is free of any bumps or protrusions. Scratch a small ditch all around the base of the wall to channel any melt water away from the floor. Place a ground sheet on the floor to help keep things dry and prevent loss of equipment in the snow. Keep stormy weather out by putting a small tarp or a pack over the entrance, but leave some opening for ventilation air to flow in. To ensure that no uninvited guests drop in, mark  the area around the cave so that someone doesn’t walk onto the roof. When you are finished using the cave, collapse it so that it does not present a hazard for others.

a) Choose the location, b) Dig the entry, c) Dig a T-shaped slot, d) Dig inward expanding up left and right, e) Expand to desired size, f) Fill-in T-shaped slot - Illustration by The Mountaineers Books

Ready to run in the mud? Here’s some tips to prep you for your first extreme mud run.

Mud runs with obstacle courses are quickly becoming a popular outdoor sport, because they’re open to everyone and are simply lots of fun. If you’re contemplating on entering one for the first time, check out these tips on what to bring and how to prepare to get  down and dirty.

What To Bring To Your First Mud Run

Shoes: Most experienced mud racers claim that lightweight trail-running shoes are best.  Be forewarned that they will get filthy, wet and probably unusable for anything else, but also make sure you can tie them on tight or they’ll pull right off in deep mud.

Shorts: Lightweight, quick drying shorts are best for mud running. The idea is not to let lots of mud cake on and weight you down.

Shirt: Lightweight, fast drying and/or compression style shirt. The less material that gets wet and hangs the better.

Goggles: The debate is out if goggles are a good idea but some swear by wearing them it can help to see in more watery events. Others think the mud and water that gets on the goggles can be a hindrance. The best bet? Bring some with you and see if everyone else is wearing them or not.

Gloves: Durable leather gloves are a must for climbing over obstacles and getting a good grip on ropes. They also prevent rope burns or any splinters you may get if you’re going to be climbing over wood walls.

Watch: Use one with a stopwatch function so you can track your time. Many are inexpensive, water resistant and can wash clean.

A Change Of Clothes: Surprisingly, many people forget to bring a change of clothes. While  there’s usually an area that you can get hosed down you’ll still be wet an cold. A change of clothes will keep you warm and comfortable after the race and when you walk up to receive your ribbon.

Identification: Sounds simple but many forget their identification. Mud run officials will need to see your ID to verify your entry. Put it in a plastic sandwich bag to keep it clean or hand it off to a relative after you sign in.

How To Train For Your First Mud Run

Most Mud Runs are 5K or 10K so you don’t need to be a marathon or triathlon runner to do them. But there are obstacles in these races that will require some upper body strength to pull yourself up walls, as well as some agility to crawl under and through obstacles.  Here’s some basic training tips that most mud run organizers recommend.

1) Run regularly 3-4 times a week and work up to 3-5 miles.

2) Lots of push-ups to increase upper body strength. You should be able to do 15-20 push ups in a row.

3) Squats are also great to improve leg strength and will help your climbing abilities over large walls and jumping over obstacles.

In all, you should be in relatively good shape and consult with your doctor first, if you haven’t attempted something this serious before. There’s lots of mud runs all over the country. One good way to locate one in your area is to simply go online and search mud runs in your state and/or county. There are also websites such as www.MudCentral.com that list a variety of mud run organizations.  Make sure to check each one out as rules are different with each organization. But the main idea on your first mud run is to have fun and gain some experience. Once you’ve got a few  under your belt, you can start to be competitive, train and go for the win.

Get the most out of your outdoor activity by selecting the right socks.

When you consider most of your outdoor adventures are done on your feet, its no wonder that the type of socks you use will play a key role in the overall enjoyment of your outdoor activity. Face it. It’s difficult to enjoy the scenery after your high country trek, mountain bike ride or even from your campsite,  if your feet are uncomfortable, wet and irritated. So selecting the right socks for your activity should be just as important as the rest of your gear.

Outdoor sport socks are basically designed for two things. The first is to keep your feet dry from sweat and moisture. The way this is accomplished is primarily a result of the fabric used. “Material choice is important,” says Chip Coe, CEO of Teko Socks. “When cotton gets wet, it absorbs and holds water in its liquid form. Moisture allows the fibers to collapse, thus eliminating any cushioning effect of the sock. Furthermore, it creates a perfectly wet environment for blister formation.” With this in mind, those cotton tube socks can do more damage than what they’re worth. They’re obviously not the best choice for your outdoor activities, and should be relegated to the back of your sock drawer.

Running and hiking socks like this Lorpen Tri Layer Ultralight manage moisture by using three layers of different fabrics.

Moisture Management

To absorb and wick away moisture, sock manufacturers use a variety of fabrics. Merino wool is one of the most common, as it has great moisture absorption properties and, depending on where the wool is farmed, is also good for the environment. But for higher aerobic activities such as trail running, a synthetic fiber such as a polypropylene or nylon wicks and dries faster than wool. To get the best of both worlds, many prefer to combine natural and synthetic fibers and have created proprietary blends such as CoolMax, Olefin, Lycra, Thorlon, and others. For example, a popular blend combines merino wool with CoolMax and silk to create a multi-sport sock that’s effective in both hiking and running applications.

Other methods include layering  various fabrics to offer the best moisture absorbing, wicking and drying capabilities all in one. Lorpen for example, utilizes a three-layer system of materials, in which fabric layers perform a specific function.  In this instance, a  first layer made from CoolMax acts to wick away moisture from the skin. A middle layer made of Tencel, a natural fiber, spreads moisture away for quick evaporation. Then, a nylon knit outer layer offers added durability on high-friction areas to improve the life of the sock.

But for high-aerobic activities the combination of fabrics alone isn’t always enough to control moisture. So to further aid in moisture management, air channels and mesh insteps are often used to improve ventilation. For obvious reasons, a running sock will have more ventilation than a backpacking sock so it still makes sense to look at the packaging and choose the right sock for your particular activity.

Comfort = Performance

The second function of an outdoor sport sock is to provide comfort. Depending on the activity, cushion is added in key areas to provide shock absorption and minimize movement within the shoe. “Thicker pads can take up any extra foot movement in the shoe so that it eliminates any friction. At the same time it reduces shearing forces for maximum comfort,” says Jeff Lawson of Thorlo. “By using variable density, engineered pads, socks can offer outdoor enthusiasts excellent foot protection and comfort so that they can enjoy their activity.”

The heavy looped padding on the heel of this Teko sock is designed to take up movement in the shoe, thus reducing impact and shearing forces.

“Cushioning level is really a personal choice,” says Cole. “For example, long distance runners seem to prefer a light to medium cushioning to help with shock absorption and reduce friction. Too much cushion however, can create a looser fit, resulting in movement and friction. Thus it produces the potential for bunching and blisters.” The various amounts of cushion used depends on how the sock will be used. That’s one of the reasons why it’s imperative to match the sock to the shoe. Don’t be afraid to take your favorite pair of hiking or running socks with you to the outdoor retail store when you’re selecting a new pair of hiking, or trail running shoes.

Along with extra padding sock manufacturers also minimize or even eliminate pressure points with various manufacturing techniques. Items like seamless toe closures eliminate irritation at the top of the toe. A Y-stitch heel pocket allows the heel of the foot to properly fit into the sock, preventing any slippage or extra material from bunching up at the back of the ankle and causing blisters. Arch bands are also used to keep the sock correctly positioned on the foot to eliminate movement and a chance to create blisters.

Various styles of ankle bands provide support and protection from rubbing. Wide bands also help to keep out dirt that can work its way into the sock.

In addition, sport specific socks like those used for trail running and mountain biking, also include a wide ankle band in crew socks that fit over the ankle. This is intended to keep out dirt and small rocks that can get kicked up and work there way in.  You may also notice some socks with high-heel protection on crew or below-the-ankle socks to prevent irritation from trail running shoes or light hiking shoes that feature tall rear quarters for extra stability.

Compression

Along with moisture management and cushioning, some socks also utilize compression as an added feature. Compression helps to reduce delayed onset muscle soreness (DOS) that often occurs during long periods of hiking, running or even snowboarding and skiing.

Compression often helps blood circulation and is most often used in an over-the-calf style sock. Compression is added to a sock in the form of a stretchable fabric such as Lycra, and nylon and is often combined with a moisture wicking fabric such as CoolMax or other brand of fiber. Swiftwick for example, uses a proprietary fabric called Olefin combined with nylon and spandex. This proprietary blend is fast drying, retains less than .01 percent of its weight in moisture and its production leaves very little waste.

Environmentally Friendly Choices

Despite the use of synthetic fabrics and technical savvy, most outdoor performance sock manufacturers are greatly concerned about the environment. Many minimize their packaging and utilize recycled materials.

Here you can see the difference in this Swiftwick compression sock versus the same size standard sport sock. The compression aids in preventing sore muscles after strenuous exercise.

Some only use wool derived from certified organic wool farms, which means that the wool is washed without the use of chemical treatments, bleaching, pesticides and mulesing, a technique where strips of wool bearing skin is cut away from the sheep. Some companies go even further. Teko for example, donates a portion of their proceeds of sales to groups such as The Conservation Alliance, City WILD and others to help promote environmental awareness.

The bottom line is, do your homework. Try various manufacturers’ socks and find out what works best on your feet and for your outdoor sport. Is it worth the cost? There’s no doubt that outdoor sport specific socks are more expensive than a package of six white tube socks. But once you try a single pair on your next hiking, mountain biking, backpacking or running excursion, you’ll be asking yourself why you would wear anything else.

By Dan Sanchez

By Dan Sanchez

Getting your kids involved in camping can be a fun and rewarding experience for them. But they have different needs. Follow these tips and to ensure they’ll be safe, clean and have lots of fun.

Don’t get too ambitious with an infant or young child. Many pediatricians suggest that at five months of age, a child can spend the night outdoors, but use good judgement. You don’t want to take them in bad weather conditions or be too far away to receive immediate medical attention in case of an accident. Practice some short overnight trips and see how your infant and toddler does first.

Infants and toddlers require more sun and mosquito protection. Small children can’t tell you if they’ve been stung or feeling sun burned. Make sure to use high SPF sun protection for your child and dress them in a hat or protective clothing.  Read our 10-tips to better sun protection HERE. Mosquito protection is also imperative and there’s plenty of natural solutions available that don’t have harsh chemicals. Just make sure to reapply both types of protection often. More info on natural repellents is HERE.

Keep young ones at arm’s reach. No matter if they crawl or walk, toddlers like to wander and explore. There’s lots of dangers in a campsite other than the obvious roaring campfire. Hot coffee on a table, heavy lanterns, an axle used for chopping wood, insects and more can cause serious injury if a child leaves your sight for a few seconds.

Children need an appropriate sized sleeping bag. Don’t think they’ll stay warm in an adult bag. Sleeping bags are meant to stay close to your body and radiate heat. Too large of a bag will not radiate enough heat and allow cold air to enter while they’re sleeping.

Take lots of clothes. What kid do you know that doesn’t like to play in the dirt? They get dirty and often, so bring enough clothes to change them into for sleeping and day wear. In addition, kids may get carried in a chest pack or on your back, so they won’t exert themselves as much as you and will need to stay warm in colder or higher altitudes.

Give them a whistle (if they’re responsible). Giving 3-4 year old kids a whistle is a great idea when  you’re out hiking and they want to walk, instead of being on your back.  Teach them to blow the whistle in case they get lost, but not all day long. Some people put small bells on younger toddler’s shoes so they can hear them at all times.

Teach kids low-impact camping tips. They’ll pick this up early on and enjoy clean up, as well as learning to make responsible decisions for their safety, as well as for the environment.

Pack lots of games and arrange activities. Infants typically sleep, but toddlers and young kids need to keep themselves entertained. Pack books, small board or card games to keep them occupied during quiet time.  Arrange activities such as gathering small sticks for tinder or let them make Smores with parental supervision.  Check to see if the campground has evening programs for kids which can also be a great way to get them tired for a good nights sleep.

We’ve all experienced a flat bicycle tire at one time or another. We know it will eventually happen, but why does it always seem to occur on a mountain bike trail you’ve been waiting all  year to experience? To say the least, it’s never a good time to get a flat, but you can take some preventative measures to be prepared if one decides to ruin your bike ride. Follow these 10 tips and you may avoid some headaches when your next flat happens.

1) Replace the rim’s rubber strips with thin plastic or fabric strips. Thinner strips provide more room for the tire bead and makes mounting and removal easier.

2) Use slightly smaller cross-section tubes. Racers do this all the time to make it easier and faster to repair a flat. For example a 26 x 1.75 diameter mountain bike tube will work on any 26-inch rim. A 20 centimeter road bike tube will easily stretch and fill up to a 28 centimeter tire. The smaller sizes weight less and take up less room in your pack.

3) When carrying spare tubes (which is a must) dust them with talcum powder. This helps the tire bead slide into the rim easier, sometimes without needing a lever!

4) If you get a flat, very carefully feel the inside of the tire for embedded thorns, rocks or glass. Otherwise you’ll end up with another flat in no time. Just be careful not to cut your fingers.

5) If you’re patching a tube with rubber cement and a patch, make sure it dries properly before reinstalling it. Blowing on it or wetting the tube to locate a leak will add moisture and will compromise the bonding process. Listen or feel for the leak to locate it.

6) Squeeze both sides of the tire’s bead away from the rim to break the sticky bond that sometimes develops between the tire an rim. It also forces the tire into the deepest part of the rim, making it easier to remove when necessary.

7) Replace or check your rubber cement on a regular basis. No matter how hard you try, it always seems to dry up and it’s good to have a fresh tube.

8) Get a Schrader valve tool. If your kids’ bikes use tubes with a Schrader valve get a tool from an auto parts store to tighten up loose valves. This is a common problem that can be solved with some spit on the valve and tightening it up with the tool.

9) Carry a spare tube and a patch kit. Some punctures near the Presta valve can’t always be patched and a spare tube can get accidentally punctured by tools or from constant abrasion while in your pack.

10) If you notice a leaking tire, stop and fix it immediately. If not, you can cause additional damage to the tire and tube or worse, dent the rim by hitting a pothole or large rock.